Month: January 2011

TomTom GO 920T Battery Replacement Instructions

The following TomTom Go Battery Replacement Instruction guide can be used for the following models:

•TomTom GO 920T

If you purchase your TomTom GO 920T Battery from BatteryShip.com, you’ll also receive a couple of torx head wrenchs and a plastic tool that looks like you’d use it to remove miniature bicycle tires.  The miniature slot and philips screwdrivers won’t be needed unless your unit was built with different screws than mine.  Come to think of it, I believe my original 720 used philips screws.

Step #1 – Remove Antenna Plug and Screws

Start by flipping the unit on its face on a soft surface.  Remove the antenna plug with your fingers, and remove the two screws indicated.

Step #2 – Separate Display from Case

Using the screwdriver or something slightly larger, push on the threaded insert where the screw had been until you begin to see the front of the unit move away from the case.  Move back and forth between the two sides.  It may be a bit sticky.  Carefully pull the top of the unit away from the case.  The bottom of the unit is held into the case mechanically using a little hook mechanism.  Don’t force the separation.  Lift the unit away from the hook on the bottom during separation.

Step #3 – Remove Display Unit Flex Cable and Mic Cable, and Split Unit

The amber colored plastic with the copper traces in it is the flex circuit.  On my unit, there was a strip of black tape covering the connector.  If there, you’ll need to peel that black tape off first.  Fortunately, I got a good side view of the latch that holds the flex circuit into the connector.  Raise the latch tabs.  Once done, the flex circuit will slip right out of the connector.

Remove the mic connector (or is it the light sensor?) and you will have now split the unit into two freestanding pieces.

Step #4 – Remove Screws Securing Main Unit to Case

Remove the 4 indicated screws.  If you have an SD card installed, this would be a good time to remove that as well, if you haven’t already…

Step #5 – Separate Main Unit from Case

You may find that the small tool provided with the battery helps to get a sticky main unit separated from the case.  Exercise care when separating the unit – the speaker connector must be unplugged as well.

Step #6 – Remove the Lithium Ion Battery Connector and Remove Battery

Disconnect the 3 pin connector.

Step #7 – Separate Battery from Circuit Board

OK – this is where it gets hairy.  If you are the nervous type, this would be a good place to stop.  The battery is likely stuck onto the circuit board with some seriously aggressive adhesive .. some sort of contact cement material.  It will be necessary to PRY the battery away from the circuit board.  I started with the small tool provided with the battery, but found it inadequate to the task.  Be aware that there are no components mounted under the battery, so use of a very thin screwdriver may (as it did for me) help you out a great deal – but you MUST use it carefully.  You don’t want to scratch any of the copper traces from the back side of the board.  I had bent the battery pack up a bit by the time it was finally released from the board, but hey – the battery is what’s expendable here.

Step #8 – Apply Adhesive and Install New TomTom GO 920T Battery

Now while I’d be the first to argue that the adhesive TomTom is using might be a bit of overkill, it’s there for a very good reason.  You don’t want your new battery rattling around inside the case.  The remaining adhesive on the board isn’t enough to hold the new battery, so I opted for 4 dabs of silicone seal / adhesive to hold down my new battery.  Once the dabs were in place, I carefully set the battery back down on the board and attached the connector.  I used clear silicone, so it’s not as easy to see as it might have been.  White, clear – doesn’t matter.

The new wire was a good bit longer than the original, so I tucked the excess out of the way on the left side of the battery.

Step #9 & etc.  Reverse Everything

I noticed something during disassembly and reassembly that gave me pause.  There is a small round lug attached to the black wire under one of the screws.  The metal of the lug comes perilously close to components underneath.  Be SURE that it is bent up just a tiny bit so that it CANNOT touch the parts underneath.

*******PLEASE NOTE: Patience and care, along with moderate technical and hand tool ability, are required for the successful replacement of a battery. Excessive force may result in damage to your device. The instructions above come with no warranty or guarantee. By utilizing these instructions, you agree to hold Batteryship.com and BatteryEducation.com blameless and unaccountable for any and all damages, problems, or personal injuries that may or may not arise by your use of these instructions. Replacing your battery may void any warranty you have on your device. Please read all instructions BEFORE replacing the battery.

TomTom GO 920 Battery Replacement Instructions

The following TomTom Go Battery Replacement Instruction guide can be used for the following models:

•TomTom GO 920

If you purchase your TomTom GO 920 Battery from BatteryShip.com, you’ll also receive a couple of torx head wrenchs and a plastic tool that looks like you’d use it to remove miniature bicycle tires.  The miniature slot and philips screwdrivers won’t be needed unless your unit was built with different screws than mine.  Come to think of it, I believe my original 720 used philips screws.

Step #1 – Remove Antenna Plug and Screws

Start by flipping the unit on its face on a soft surface.  Remove the antenna plug with your fingers, and remove the two screws indicated.

Step #2 – Separate Display from Case

Using the screwdriver or something slightly larger, push on the threaded insert where the screw had been until you begin to see the front of the unit move away from the case.  Move back and forth between the two sides.  It may be a bit sticky.  Carefully pull the top of the unit away from the case.  The bottom of the unit is held into the case mechanically using a little hook mechanism.  Don’t force the separation.  Lift the unit away from the hook on the bottom during separation.

Step #3 – Remove Display Unit Flex Cable and Mic Cable, and Split Unit

The amber colored plastic with the copper traces in it is the flex circuit.  On my unit, there was a strip of black tape covering the connector.  If there, you’ll need to peel that black tape off first.  Fortunately, I got a good side view of the latch that holds the flex circuit into the connector.  Raise the latch tabs.  Once done, the flex circuit will slip right out of the connector.

Remove the mic connector (or is it the light sensor?) and you will have now split the unit into two freestanding pieces.

Step #4 – Remove Screws Securing Main Unit to Case

Remove the 4 indicated screws.  If you have an SD card installed, this would be a good time to remove that as well, if you haven’t already…

Step #5 – Separate Main Unit from Case

You may find that the small tool provided with the battery helps to get a sticky main unit separated from the case.  Exercise care when separating the unit – the speaker connector must be unplugged as well.

Step #6 – Remove the Lithium Ion Battery Connector and Remove Battery

Disconnect the 3 pin connector.

Step #7 – Separate Battery from Circuit Board

OK – this is where it gets hairy.  If you are the nervous type, this would be a good place to stop.  The battery is likely stuck onto the circuit board with some seriously aggressive adhesive .. some sort of contact cement material.  It will be necessary to PRY the battery away from the circuit board.  I started with the small tool provided with the battery, but found it inadequate to the task.  Be aware that there are no components mounted under the battery, so use of a very thin screwdriver may (as it did for me) help you out a great deal – but you MUST use it carefully.  You don’t want to scratch any of the copper traces from the back side of the board.  I had bent the battery pack up a bit by the time it was finally released from the board, but hey – the battery is what’s expendable here.

Step #8 – Apply Adhesive and Install New TomTom GO 920 Battery

Now while I’d be the first to argue that the adhesive TomTom is using might be a bit of overkill, it’s there for a very good reason.  You don’t want your new battery rattling around inside the case.  The remaining adhesive on the board isn’t enough to hold the new battery, so I opted for 4 dabs of silicone seal / adhesive to hold down my new battery.  Once the dabs were in place, I carefully set the battery back down on the board and attached the connector.  I used clear silicone, so it’s not as easy to see as it might have been.  White, clear – doesn’t matter.

The new wire was a good bit longer than the original, so I tucked the excess out of the way on the left side of the battery.

Step #9 & etc.  Reverse Everything

I noticed something during disassembly and reassembly that gave me pause.  There is a small round lug attached to the black wire under one of the screws.  The metal of the lug comes perilously close to components underneath.  Be SURE that it is bent up just a tiny bit so that it CANNOT touch the parts underneath.

*******PLEASE NOTE: Patience and care, along with moderate technical and hand tool ability, are required for the successful replacement of a battery. Excessive force may result in damage to your device. The instructions above come with no warranty or guarantee. By utilizing these instructions, you agree to hold Batteryship.com and BatteryEducation.com blameless and unaccountable for any and all damages, problems, or personal injuries that may or may not arise by your use of these instructions. Replacing your battery may void any warranty you have on your device. Please read all instructions BEFORE replacing the battery.

TomTom GO 630 Battery Replacement Instructions

The following TomTom Go Battery Replacement Instruction guide can be used for the following models:

•TomTom Go 630

If you purchase your TomTom GO 630 Battery from BatteryShip.com, you’ll also receive a couple of torx head wrenchs and a plastic tool that looks like you’d use it to remove miniature bicycle tires.  The miniature slot and philips screwdrivers won’t be needed unless your unit was built with different screws than mine.  Come to think of it, I believe my original 720 used philips screws.

Step #1 – Remove Antenna Plug and Screws

Start by flipping the unit on its face on a soft surface.  Remove the antenna plug with your fingers, and remove the two screws indicated.

Step #2 – Separate Display from Case

Using the screwdriver or something slightly larger, push on the threaded insert where the screw had been until you begin to see the front of the unit move away from the case.  Move back and forth between the two sides.  It may be a bit sticky.  Carefully pull the top of the unit away from the case.  The bottom of the unit is held into the case mechanically using a little hook mechanism.  Don’t force the separation.  Lift the unit away from the hook on the bottom during separation.

Step #3 – Remove Display Unit Flex Cable and Mic Cable, and Split Unit

The amber colored plastic with the copper traces in it is the flex circuit.  On my unit, there was a strip of black tape covering the connector.  If there, you’ll need to peel that black tape off first.  Fortunately, I got a good side view of the latch that holds the flex circuit into the connector.  Raise the latch tabs.  Once done, the flex circuit will slip right out of the connector.

Remove the mic connector (or is it the light sensor?) and you will have now split the unit into two freestanding pieces.

Step #4 – Remove Screws Securing Main Unit to Case

Remove the 4 indicated screws.  If you have an SD card installed, this would be a good time to remove that as well, if you haven’t already…

Step #5 – Separate Main Unit from Case

You may find that the small tool provided with the battery helps to get a sticky main unit separated from the case.  Exercise care when separating the unit – the speaker connector must be unplugged as well.

Step #6 – Remove the Lithium Ion Battery Connector and Remove Battery

Disconnect the 3 pin connector.

Step #7 – Separate Battery from Circuit Board

OK – this is where it gets hairy.  If you are the nervous type, this would be a good place to stop.  The battery is likely stuck onto the circuit board with some seriously aggressive adhesive .. some sort of contact cement material.  It will be necessary to PRY the battery away from the circuit board.  I started with the small tool provided with the battery, but found it inadequate to the task.  Be aware that there are no components mounted under the battery, so use of a very thin screwdriver may (as it did for me) help you out a great deal – but you MUST use it carefully.  You don’t want to scratch any of the copper traces from the back side of the board.  I had bent the battery pack up a bit by the time it was finally released from the board, but hey – the battery is what’s expendable here.

Step #8 – Apply Adhesive and Install New TomTom GO 630 Battery

Now while I’d be the first to argue that the adhesive TomTom is using might be a bit of overkill, it’s there for a very good reason.  You don’t want your new battery rattling around inside the case.  The remaining adhesive on the board isn’t enough to hold the new battery, so I opted for 4 dabs of silicone seal / adhesive to hold down my new battery.  Once the dabs were in place, I carefully set the battery back down on the board and attached the connector.  I used clear silicone, so it’s not as easy to see as it might have been.  White, clear – doesn’t matter.

The new wire was a good bit longer than the original, so I tucked the excess out of the way on the left side of the battery.

Step #9 & etc.  Reverse Everything

I noticed something during disassembly and reassembly that gave me pause.  There is a small round lug attached to the black wire under one of the screws.  The metal of the lug comes perilously close to components underneath.  Be SURE that it is bent up just a tiny bit so that it CANNOT touch the parts underneath.

*******PLEASE NOTE: Patience and care, along with moderate technical and hand tool ability, are required for the successful replacement of a battery. Excessive force may result in damage to your device. The instructions above come with no warranty or guarantee. By utilizing these instructions, you agree to hold Batteryship.com and BatteryEducation.com blameless and unaccountable for any and all damages, problems, or personal injuries that may or may not arise by your use of these instructions. Replacing your battery may void any warranty you have on your device. Please read all instructions BEFORE replacing the battery.

TomTom GO 930T Battery Replacement Instructions

The following TomTom Go Battery Replacement Instruction guide can be used for the following models:

•TomTom GO 930T

If you purchase your TomTom GO 930T Battery from BatteryShip.com, you’ll also receive a couple of torx head wrenchs and a plastic tool that looks like you’d use it to remove miniature bicycle tires.  The miniature slot and philips screwdrivers won’t be needed unless your unit was built with different screws than mine.  Come to think of it, I believe my original 720 used philips screws.

Step #1 – Remove Antenna Plug and Screws

Start by flipping the unit on its face on a soft surface.  Remove the antenna plug with your fingers, and remove the two screws indicated.

Step #2 – Separate Display from Case

Using the screwdriver or something slightly larger, push on the threaded insert where the screw had been until you begin to see the front of the unit move away from the case.  Move back and forth between the two sides.  It may be a bit sticky.  Carefully pull the top of the unit away from the case.  The bottom of the unit is held into the case mechanically using a little hook mechanism.  Don’t force the separation.  Lift the unit away from the hook on the bottom during separation.

Step #3 – Remove Display Unit Flex Cable and Mic Cable, and Split Unit

The amber colored plastic with the copper traces in it is the flex circuit.  On my unit, there was a strip of black tape covering the connector.  If there, you’ll need to peel that black tape off first.  Fortunately, I got a good side view of the latch that holds the flex circuit into the connector.  Raise the latch tabs.  Once done, the flex circuit will slip right out of the connector.

Remove the mic connector (or is it the light sensor?) and you will have now split the unit into two freestanding pieces.

Step #4 – Remove Screws Securing Main Unit to Case

Remove the 4 indicated screws.  If you have an SD card installed, this would be a good time to remove that as well, if you haven’t already…

Step #5 – Separate Main Unit from Case

You may find that the small tool provided with the battery helps to get a sticky main unit separated from the case.  Exercise care when separating the unit – the speaker connector must be unplugged as well.

Step #6 – Remove the Lithium Ion Battery Connector and Remove Battery

Disconnect the 3 pin connector.

Step #7 – Separate Battery from Circuit Board

OK – this is where it gets hairy.  If you are the nervous type, this would be a good place to stop.  The battery is likely stuck onto the circuit board with some seriously aggressive adhesive .. some sort of contact cement material.  It will be necessary to PRY the battery away from the circuit board.  I started with the small tool provided with the battery, but found it inadequate to the task.  Be aware that there are no components mounted under the battery, so use of a very thin screwdriver may (as it did for me) help you out a great deal – but you MUST use it carefully.  You don’t want to scratch any of the copper traces from the back side of the board.  I had bent the battery pack up a bit by the time it was finally released from the board, but hey – the battery is what’s expendable here.

Step #8 – Apply Adhesive and Install New TomTom GO 930T Battery

Now while I’d be the first to argue that the adhesive TomTom is using might be a bit of overkill, it’s there for a very good reason.  You don’t want your new battery rattling around inside the case.  The remaining adhesive on the board isn’t enough to hold the new battery, so I opted for 4 dabs of silicone seal / adhesive to hold down my new battery.  Once the dabs were in place, I carefully set the battery back down on the board and attached the connector.  I used clear silicone, so it’s not as easy to see as it might have been.  White, clear – doesn’t matter.

The new wire was a good bit longer than the original, so I tucked the excess out of the way on the left side of the battery.

Step #9 & etc.  Reverse Everything

I noticed something during disassembly and reassembly that gave me pause.  There is a small round lug attached to the black wire under one of the screws.  The metal of the lug comes perilously close to components underneath.  Be SURE that it is bent up just a tiny bit so that it CANNOT touch the parts underneath.

*******PLEASE NOTE: Patience and care, along with moderate technical and hand tool ability, are required for the successful replacement of a battery. Excessive force may result in damage to your device. The instructions above come with no warranty or guarantee. By utilizing these instructions, you agree to hold Batteryship.com and BatteryEducation.com blameless and unaccountable for any and all damages, problems, or personal injuries that may or may not arise by your use of these instructions. Replacing your battery may void any warranty you have on your device. Please read all instructions BEFORE replacing the battery.

TomTom GO 930 Battery Replacement Instructions

The following TomTom Go Battery Replacement Instruction guide can be used for the following models:

•TomTom GO 930

If you purchase your TomTom GO 930 Battery from BatteryShip.com, you’ll also receive a couple of torx head wrenchs and a plastic tool that looks like you’d use it to remove miniature bicycle tires.  The miniature slot and philips screwdrivers won’t be needed unless your unit was built with different screws than mine.  Come to think of it, I believe my original 720 used philips screws.

Step #1 – Remove Antenna Plug and Screws

Start by flipping the unit on its face on a soft surface.  Remove the antenna plug with your fingers, and remove the two screws indicated.

Step #2 – Separate Display from Case

Using the screwdriver or something slightly larger, push on the threaded insert where the screw had been until you begin to see the front of the unit move away from the case.  Move back and forth between the two sides.  It may be a bit sticky.  Carefully pull the top of the unit away from the case.  The bottom of the unit is held into the case mechanically using a little hook mechanism.  Don’t force the separation.  Lift the unit away from the hook on the bottom during separation.

Step #3 – Remove Display Unit Flex Cable and Mic Cable, and Split Unit

The amber colored plastic with the copper traces in it is the flex circuit.  On my unit, there was a strip of black tape covering the connector.  If there, you’ll need to peel that black tape off first.  Fortunately, I got a good side view of the latch that holds the flex circuit into the connector.  Raise the latch tabs.  Once done, the flex circuit will slip right out of the connector.

Remove the mic connector (or is it the light sensor?) and you will have now split the unit into two freestanding pieces.

Step #4 – Remove Screws Securing Main Unit to Case

Remove the 4 indicated screws.  If you have an SD card installed, this would be a good time to remove that as well, if you haven’t already…

Step #5 – Separate Main Unit from Case

You may find that the small tool provided with the battery helps to get a sticky main unit separated from the case.  Exercise care when separating the unit – the speaker connector must be unplugged as well.

Step #6 – Remove the Lithium Ion Battery Connector and Remove Battery

Disconnect the 3 pin connector.

Step #7 – Separate Battery from Circuit Board

OK – this is where it gets hairy.  If you are the nervous type, this would be a good place to stop.  The battery is likely stuck onto the circuit board with some seriously aggressive adhesive .. some sort of contact cement material.  It will be necessary to PRY the battery away from the circuit board.  I started with the small tool provided with the battery, but found it inadequate to the task.  Be aware that there are no components mounted under the battery, so use of a very thin screwdriver may (as it did for me) help you out a great deal – but you MUST use it carefully.  You don’t want to scratch any of the copper traces from the back side of the board.  I had bent the battery pack up a bit by the time it was finally released from the board, but hey – the battery is what’s expendable here.

Step #8 – Apply Adhesive and Install New TomTom GO 930 Battery

Now while I’d be the first to argue that the adhesive TomTom is using might be a bit of overkill, it’s there for a very good reason.  You don’t want your new battery rattling around inside the case.  The remaining adhesive on the board isn’t enough to hold the new battery, so I opted for 4 dabs of silicone seal / adhesive to hold down my new battery.  Once the dabs were in place, I carefully set the battery back down on the board and attached the connector.  I used clear silicone, so it’s not as easy to see as it might have been.  White, clear – doesn’t matter.

The new wire was a good bit longer than the original, so I tucked the excess out of the way on the left side of the battery.

Step #9 & etc.  Reverse Everything

I noticed something during disassembly and reassembly that gave me pause.  There is a small round lug attached to the black wire under one of the screws.  The metal of the lug comes perilously close to components underneath.  Be SURE that it is bent up just a tiny bit so that it CANNOT touch the parts underneath.

*******PLEASE NOTE: Patience and care, along with moderate technical and hand tool ability, are required for the successful replacement of a battery. Excessive force may result in damage to your device. The instructions above come with no warranty or guarantee. By utilizing these instructions, you agree to hold Batteryship.com and BatteryEducation.com blameless and unaccountable for any and all damages, problems, or personal injuries that may or may not arise by your use of these instructions. Replacing your battery may void any warranty you have on your device. Please read all instructions BEFORE replacing the battery.

TomTom GO 730T Battery Replacement Instructions

The following TomTom Go Battery Replacement Instruction guide can be used for the following models:

•TomTom GO 730T

If you purchase your TomTom GO 730T Battery from BatteryShip.com, you’ll also receive a couple of torx head wrenchs and a plastic tool that looks like you’d use it to remove miniature bicycle tires.  The miniature slot and philips screwdrivers won’t be needed unless your unit was built with different screws than mine.  Come to think of it, I believe my original 720 used philips screws.

Step #1 – Remove Antenna Plug and Screws

Start by flipping the unit on its face on a soft surface.  Remove the antenna plug with your fingers, and remove the two screws indicated.

Step #2 – Separate Display from Case

Using the screwdriver or something slightly larger, push on the threaded insert where the screw had been until you begin to see the front of the unit move away from the case.  Move back and forth between the two sides.  It may be a bit sticky.  Carefully pull the top of the unit away from the case.  The bottom of the unit is held into the case mechanically using a little hook mechanism.  Don’t force the separation.  Lift the unit away from the hook on the bottom during separation.

Step #3 – Remove Display Unit Flex Cable and Mic Cable, and Split Unit

The amber colored plastic with the copper traces in it is the flex circuit.  On my unit, there was a strip of black tape covering the connector.  If there, you’ll need to peel that black tape off first.  Fortunately, I got a good side view of the latch that holds the flex circuit into the connector.  Raise the latch tabs.  Once done, the flex circuit will slip right out of the connector.

Remove the mic connector (or is it the light sensor?) and you will have now split the unit into two freestanding pieces.

Step #4 – Remove Screws Securing Main Unit to Case

Remove the 4 indicated screws.  If you have an SD card installed, this would be a good time to remove that as well, if you haven’t already…

Step #5 – Separate Main Unit from Case

You may find that the small tool provided with the battery helps to get a sticky main unit separated from the case.  Exercise care when separating the unit – the speaker connector must be unplugged as well.

Step #6 – Remove the Lithium Ion Battery Connector and Remove Battery

Disconnect the 3 pin connector.

Step #7 – Separate Battery from Circuit Board

OK – this is where it gets hairy.  If you are the nervous type, this would be a good place to stop.  The battery is likely stuck onto the circuit board with some seriously aggressive adhesive .. some sort of contact cement material.  It will be necessary to PRY the battery away from the circuit board.  I started with the small tool provided with the battery, but found it inadequate to the task.  Be aware that there are no components mounted under the battery, so use of a very thin screwdriver may (as it did for me) help you out a great deal – but you MUST use it carefully.  You don’t want to scratch any of the copper traces from the back side of the board.  I had bent the battery pack up a bit by the time it was finally released from the board, but hey – the battery is what’s expendable here.

Step #8 – Apply Adhesive and Install New TomTom GO 730T Battery

Now while I’d be the first to argue that the adhesive TomTom is using might be a bit of overkill, it’s there for a very good reason.  You don’t want your new battery rattling around inside the case.  The remaining adhesive on the board isn’t enough to hold the new battery, so I opted for 4 dabs of silicone seal / adhesive to hold down my new battery.  Once the dabs were in place, I carefully set the battery back down on the board and attached the connector.  I used clear silicone, so it’s not as easy to see as it might have been.  White, clear – doesn’t matter.

The new wire was a good bit longer than the original, so I tucked the excess out of the way on the left side of the battery.

Step #9 & etc.  Reverse Everything

I noticed something during disassembly and reassembly that gave me pause.  There is a small round lug attached to the black wire under one of the screws.  The metal of the lug comes perilously close to components underneath.  Be SURE that it is bent up just a tiny bit so that it CANNOT touch the parts underneath.

*******PLEASE NOTE: Patience and care, along with moderate technical and hand tool ability, are required for the successful replacement of a battery. Excessive force may result in damage to your device. The instructions above come with no warranty or guarantee. By utilizing these instructions, you agree to hold Batteryship.com and BatteryEducation.com blameless and unaccountable for any and all damages, problems, or personal injuries that may or may not arise by your use of these instructions. Replacing your battery may void any warranty you have on your device. Please read all instructions BEFORE replacing the battery.

TomTom GO 730 Battery Replacement Instructions

The following TomTom Go Battery Replacement Instruction guide can be used for the following models:

•TomTom GO 730

If you purchase your TomTom GO 730 Battery from BatteryShip.com, you’ll also receive a couple of torx head wrenchs and a plastic tool that looks like you’d use it to remove miniature bicycle tires.  The miniature slot and philips screwdrivers won’t be needed unless your unit was built with different screws than mine.  Come to think of it, I believe my original 720 used philips screws.

Step #1 – Remove Antenna Plug and Screws

Start by flipping the unit on its face on a soft surface.  Remove the antenna plug with your fingers, and remove the two screws indicated.

Step #2 – Separate Display from Case

Using the screwdriver or something slightly larger, push on the threaded insert where the screw had been until you begin to see the front of the unit move away from the case.  Move back and forth between the two sides.  It may be a bit sticky.  Carefully pull the top of the unit away from the case.  The bottom of the unit is held into the case mechanically using a little hook mechanism.  Don’t force the separation.  Lift the unit away from the hook on the bottom during separation.

Step #3 – Remove Display Unit Flex Cable and Mic Cable, and Split Unit

The amber colored plastic with the copper traces in it is the flex circuit.  On my unit, there was a strip of black tape covering the connector.  If there, you’ll need to peel that black tape off first.  Fortunately, I got a good side view of the latch that holds the flex circuit into the connector.  Raise the latch tabs.  Once done, the flex circuit will slip right out of the connector.

Remove the mic connector (or is it the light sensor?) and you will have now split the unit into two freestanding pieces.

Step #4 – Remove Screws Securing Main Unit to Case

Remove the 4 indicated screws.  If you have an SD card installed, this would be a good time to remove that as well, if you haven’t already…

Step #5 – Separate Main Unit from Case

You may find that the small tool provided with the battery helps to get a sticky main unit separated from the case.  Exercise care when separating the unit – the speaker connector must be unplugged as well.

Step #6 – Remove the Lithium Ion Battery Connector and Remove Battery

Disconnect the 3 pin connector.

Step #7 – Separate Battery from Circuit Board

OK – this is where it gets hairy.  If you are the nervous type, this would be a good place to stop.  The battery is likely stuck onto the circuit board with some seriously aggressive adhesive .. some sort of contact cement material.  It will be necessary to PRY the battery away from the circuit board.  I started with the small tool provided with the battery, but found it inadequate to the task.  Be aware that there are no components mounted under the battery, so use of a very thin screwdriver may (as it did for me) help you out a great deal – but you MUST use it carefully.  You don’t want to scratch any of the copper traces from the back side of the board.  I had bent the battery pack up a bit by the time it was finally released from the board, but hey – the battery is what’s expendable here.

Step #8 – Apply Adhesive and Install New TomTom GO 730 Battery

Now while I’d be the first to argue that the adhesive TomTom is using might be a bit of overkill, it’s there for a very good reason.  You don’t want your new battery rattling around inside the case.  The remaining adhesive on the board isn’t enough to hold the new battery, so I opted for 4 dabs of silicone seal / adhesive to hold down my new battery.  Once the dabs were in place, I carefully set the battery back down on the board and attached the connector.  I used clear silicone, so it’s not as easy to see as it might have been.  White, clear – doesn’t matter.

The new wire was a good bit longer than the original, so I tucked the excess out of the way on the left side of the battery.

Step #9 & etc.  Reverse Everything

I noticed something during disassembly and reassembly that gave me pause.  There is a small round lug attached to the black wire under one of the screws.  The metal of the lug comes perilously close to components underneath.  Be SURE that it is bent up just a tiny bit so that it CANNOT touch the parts underneath.

*******PLEASE NOTE: Patience and care, along with moderate technical and hand tool ability, are required for the successful replacement of a battery. Excessive force may result in damage to your device. The instructions above come with no warranty or guarantee. By utilizing these instructions, you agree to hold Batteryship.com and BatteryEducation.com blameless and unaccountable for any and all damages, problems, or personal injuries that may or may not arise by your use of these instructions. Replacing your battery may void any warranty you have on your device. Please read all instructions BEFORE replacing the battery.

TomTom GO 530 Battery Replacement Instructions

The following TomTom Go Battery Replacement Instruction guide can be used for the following models:

•TomTom Go 530

If you purchase your TomTom Go 530 Battery from BatteryShip.com, you’ll also receive a couple of torx head wrenchs and a plastic tool that looks like you’d use it to remove miniature bicycle tires. 

Step #1 – Remove Antenna Plug and Screws

Start by flipping the unit on its face on a soft surface.  Remove the antenna plug with your fingers, and remove the two screws indicated.

Step #2 – Separate Display from Case

Using the screwdriver or something slightly larger, push on the threaded insert where the screw had been until you begin to see the front of the unit move away from the case.  Move back and forth between the two sides.  It may be a bit sticky.  Carefully pull the top of the unit away from the case.  The bottom of the unit is held into the case mechanically using a little hook mechanism.  Don’t force the separation.  Lift the unit away from the hook on the bottom during separation.

Step #3 – Remove Display Unit Flex Cable and Mic Cable, and Split Unit

The amber colored plastic with the copper traces in it is the flex circuit.  On my unit, there was a strip of black tape covering the connector.  If there, you’ll need to peel that black tape off first.  Fortunately, I got a good side view of the latch that holds the flex circuit into the connector.  Raise the latch tabs.  Once done, the flex circuit will slip right out of the connector.

Remove the mic connector (or is it the light sensor?) and you will have now split the unit into two freestanding pieces.

Step #4 – Remove Screws Securing Main Unit to Case

Remove the 4 indicated screws.  If you have an SD card installed, this would be a good time to remove that as well, if you haven’t already…

Step #5 – Separate Main Unit from Case

You may find that the small tool provided with the battery helps to get a sticky main unit separated from the case.  Exercise care when separating the unit – the speaker connector must be unplugged as well.

Step #6 – Remove the Lithium Ion Battery Connector and Remove Battery

Disconnect the 3 pin connector.

Step #7 – Separate Battery from Circuit Board

OK – this is where it gets hairy.  If you are the nervous type, this would be a good place to stop.  The battery is likely stuck onto the circuit board with some seriously aggressive adhesive .. some sort of contact cement material.  It will be necessary to PRY the battery away from the circuit board.  I started with the small tool provided with the battery, but found it inadequate to the task.  Be aware that there are no components mounted under the battery, so use of a very thin screwdriver may (as it did for me) help you out a great deal – but you MUST use it carefully.  You don’t want to scratch any of the copper traces from the back side of the board.  I had bent the battery pack up a bit by the time it was finally released from the board, but hey – the battery is what’s expendable here.

Step #8 – Apply Adhesive and Install New TomTom Go 530 Battery

Now while I’d be the first to argue that the adhesive TomTom is using might be a bit of overkill, it’s there for a very good reason.  You don’t want your new battery rattling around inside the case.  The remaining adhesive on the board isn’t enough to hold the new battery, so I opted for 4 dabs of silicone seal / adhesive to hold down my new battery.  Once the dabs were in place, I carefully set the battery back down on the board and attached the connector.  I used clear silicone, so it’s not as easy to see as it might have been.  White, clear – doesn’t matter.

The new wire was a good bit longer than the original, so I tucked the excess out of the way on the left side of the battery.

Step #9 & etc.  Reverse Everything

I noticed something during disassembly and reassembly that gave me pause.  There is a small round lug attached to the black wire under one of the screws.  The metal of the lug comes perilously close to components underneath.  Be SURE that it is bent up just a tiny bit so that it CANNOT touch the parts underneath.

*******PLEASE NOTE: Patience and care, along with moderate technical and hand tool ability, are required for the successful replacement of a battery. Excessive force may result in damage to your device. The instructions above come with no warranty or guarantee. By utilizing these instructions, you agree to hold Batteryship.com and BatteryEducation.com blameless and unaccountable for any and all damages, problems, or personal injuries that may or may not arise by your use of these instructions. Replacing your battery may void any warranty you have on your device. Please read all instructions BEFORE replacing the battery.

Garmin Nuvi 680 Battery Replacement Instructions

The following Garmin Nuvi 680 Battery Replacement Instruction guide can be used for the following models: 

•Garmin Nuvi 680

If you purchased your Garmin Nuvi 680 Battery from BatteryShip.com, you’ll also receive a tool kit that can be used to help open the Garmin Nuvi.

1. Begin by laying your Nuvi face down and lift open your receiver.

2. Once the receiver is lifted open you will see 2 screws on the back of your receiver that will need to be removed.

3. Once the screws are removed you will be able to pry open the receiver and locate the black plastic spring cover at the base.

4. Using a sharp object press into the spring cover (inward) to release the spring that secures the receiver.

5. Gently unfasten the receiver and remove the spring to reveal the 2 screws that holds the Garmin Nuvi together (the yellow ribbon cable should remain attached).

6. Remove the 2 screws with screwdrivers provided in your battery replacement kit you received from BatteryShip.com.

7. Carefully open the Garmin using your pry tool (you will be separating the Nuvi case until it snaps open)

8.  Once sepearted shift the upper portion of the Garmin to the side to reveal 2 screws.

9. Remove the screws and gently lift the circuit board with the pry tool.

10. Once the circuit board is lifted you will first see 2 white (plastic) connectors with wires leading out. Remove these connectors by pulling them out. One of the connectors is the old battery.

11. Open up (or separate the Nuvi).

12. Remove the old battery.

13. Install the new Garmin 680 Battery from BatteryShip.com.

14. Reattach the 2 connectors.

15. Replace the circuit board and screws.

16. Gently snap the Garmin Nuvi shut.

17. Replace the 2 screws you removed in step 6.

18. Return the spring to its original position and snap the receiver in place.

19. Replace the screws on the back of the receiver.

20. Close the receiver and charge your battery for 4+hours

*****PLEASE NOTE: Patience and care, along with moderate technical and hand tool ability, are required for the successful replacement of a battery. Excessive force may result in damage to your device. The instructions above come with no warranty or guarantee. By utilizing these instructions, you agree to hold Batteryship.com and BatteryEducation.com blameless and unaccountable for any and all damages, problems, or personal injuries that may or may not arise by your use of these instructions. Replacing your battery may void any warranty you have on your device. Please read all instructions BEFORE replacing the battery.

Garmin Nuvi 660 Battery Replacement Instructions

The following Garmin Nuvi 660 Battery Replacement Instruction guide can be used for the following models: 

•Garmin Nuvi 660

If you purchased your Garmin Nuvi 660 Battery from BatteryShip.com, you’ll also receive a tool kit that can be used to help open the Garmin Nuvi.

1. Begin by laying your Nuvi face down and lift open your receiver.

2. Once the receiver is lifted open you will see 2 screws on the back of your receiver that will need to be removed.

3. Once the screws are removed you will be able to pry open the receiver and locate the black plastic spring cover at the base.

4. Using a sharp object press into the spring cover (inward) to release the spring that secures the receiver.

5. Gently unfasten the receiver and remove the spring to reveal the 2 screws that holds the Garmin Nuvi together (the yellow ribbon cable should remain attached).

6. Remove the 2 screws with screwdrivers provided in your battery replacement kit you received from BatteryShip.com.

7. Carefully open the Garmin using your pry tool (you will be separating the Nuvi case until it snaps open)

8.  Once sepearted shift the upper portion of the Garmin to the side to reveal 2 screws.

9. Remove the screws and gently lift the circuit board with the pry tool.

10. Once the circuit board is lifted you will first see 2 white (plastic) connectors with wires leading out. Remove these connectors by pulling them out. One of the connectors is the old battery.

11. Open up (or separate the Nuvi).

12. Remove the old battery.

13. Install the new Garmin 660 Battery from BatteryShip.com.

14. Reattach the 2 connectors.

15. Replace the circuit board and screws.

16. Gently snap the Garmin Nuvi shut.

17. Replace the 2 screws you removed in step 6.

18. Return the spring to its original position and snap the receiver in place.

19. Replace the screws on the back of the receiver.

20. Close the receiver and charge your battery for 4+hours

*****PLEASE NOTE: Patience and care, along with moderate technical and hand tool ability, are required for the successful replacement of a battery. Excessive force may result in damage to your device. The instructions above come with no warranty or guarantee. By utilizing these instructions, you agree to hold Batteryship.com and BatteryEducation.com blameless and unaccountable for any and all damages, problems, or personal injuries that may or may not arise by your use of these instructions. Replacing your battery may void any warranty you have on your device. Please read all instructions BEFORE replacing the battery.